|
FIJI
July 9 – July 18, 2010
These islands and hundreds of reefs cover a large area but we have been forewarned not to stop anywhere until we check in. It is scary at night because there are many uncharted, unlit, and uninhabited islands to avoid. Then you have the unlit fishing boats with their nets and platforms to avoid. This is the beginning of having to pay attention to the night sails which will only become more hazardous as we cross the Indonesian Islands and beyond.
The northern islands are still profitable sugar plantations but do not enjoy the free slave labourers of the past. The ( Hindu ) Indians are all descended from imported indentured labour brought in by the, then, British authorities to provide the necessary workers to develop the sugar fields. These Indians have been here for generations and the census shows an even number of Fijians and Indians. The Fijian Indians have a natural sense of business that the indigenous Fijians lack and their prosperity has precipitated tensions and unrest between the two communities. Throughout the 1990’s there were several coups when an Indian was elected to the top position in Parliament. Somehow everything has been agreed upon and unrest no longer spoils the beauty of the people and their islands.
Most of our free time is spent trying to get all the knots out of the 200 lb test fishing line. I finally was able to talk John into getting heavier line instead of the 50 lb test which is always breaking.
STRANGE PHENOMENA
I had just come on night watch and was sitting at the bridge staring right at the screens, sipping my tea. At 3:28 am the bright blue arrow that reacts and tells us where and how strong the water currents are on the chart suddenly blew up to huge proportions.
I immediately looked at the radar…nothing.
I looked out over the sea…nothing.
I looked at the chart and the blue arrow was already shrinking but our speed had increased from 3.6 knts to 6.6! The tide was 40! It usually is 1 to 3 knts max. This can only mean that we had a surge; from a small tsunami? From a sun spot? I couldn’t feel anything like a G-force and probably would of missed the whole episode if I wasn’t sitting right there staring at the screen.
On our last night when I came on duty at 3 am we were in a holding pattern waiting for first light. When dawn broke over the horizon we could see the red and green buoys and the entrance was well marked.
Rally Control greeted us; we waited for customs, and went to shore. One of the hoops to jump through in Fiji customs is the bug inspection and spraying. It is $ 20US and the certificate is required to leave the country. The young agent came aboard, we filled out the paperwork and handed him the money. He gets up and starts to leave when John asked him where his equipment was to spray for bugs. Huh? What for?
SAVU SAVU
In the northern islands lies a quiet village with an excellent harbour and a warm and inviting yacht club in a former Copra Shed ( drying coconut meat for export ).
During our stay it can rain with such an intensity that the river basin we are staying in can fill up with sand, floating coconuts, and lots of natural debris. That didn’t deter us from participating with the locals in a benefit for the
Junior Sailors of Fiji. There were hotdogs, cold drinks, and lots of cheering. Bob use to own a Laser in Seattle so he raced a Laser against another kid. People wanted me to race against Bob but I have never sailed a Laser. I was willing to go for a ride with him after the race. I discovered some tricks that would have made me lose big time. Glad that didn’t happen.
I wandered down the road along the shore and noticed smoke coming up from the shoreline. Upon closer inspection it wasn’t smoke but steam with the water bubbling up so hot you could not put your hand in it. Across the road was a pearl farm and shop. I would have loved to see the difference in their farming techniques compared to the Tutumotos but, alas, there just never is enough time.
A little further down the road was a big steam and a small park. Upon investigating the grounds a local named Oliver came up and waited for me to snap my pictures.
He then proceeded to put his dinner in the rocks to steam cook. We had a nice conversation about the area, where he worked and how he was educated. Bob and I decided to take the bus up into the mountains and visit the hotel he worked in. As we were walking back to our Yacht Club where they had a band playing under the awning we discovered another yacht club that was a little more rustic and smaller.
Upstairs they had the best balcony view of the sunset. By the time we returned to our club the band was in full swing and several of us went to a local watering hole for the New Zealand vs. South Africa rugby match. As my usual MO I was rooting for the team who had the least amount of support. After the game we walked back to the yacht club and the band was still playing!
The band loved our enthusiasm.
The next day it poured down buckets and SofN decided to leave the following day so we would have plenty of time to get to Nadi ( rhymes with candy ) and my flight for home.
So much for our bus ride into the mountains to visit the vistas and Oliver’s hotel.
My skipper never wants to leave too early but we were off for the trip to Nadi in a early morning with no wind. Our first night was inside the reef and the countryside was eroded hills with lots of green vegetation and palm trees. It was quiet, calm, and we played cards.
On our second day we took inventory of our Mahi-Mahi supply and put our new heavy-duty line in the water. Less than an hour later and it was my turn to bring in the fish.
Another Mahi-Mahi! We can never get tired of eating fish when Gilly and I take turns with our favourite sauces.
Late afternoon the rugged mountains with the burned grass slopes reminded me of Northern California and Gilly of New Zealand. When we anchored inside the reef a boat with 5 people on it passed by and Gilly could not stop herself from hailing them to come over and visit.
First question: Do you have any lobsters?
Second question: Do you have any children?
No and Yes.
Gilly went and got her stash of toys and gave them enough for their children. She had lots of questions about schooling and after school activities. One lady asked John if I was his daughter ( yes, it was pretty dark by that time ). Before long we had new friends that invited us over to the village for a tour of their primary and secondary schools. Later that night, while playing cards, we figured out we had time to blow off a day and go to the village.
It was a glorious morning and we gathered lots of prezzies for the school. The charts told us the whole area was one large mass of reefs covered by the mud of the river mouth. There were several boats using a long pole and we soon discovered the murky water rose and fell to within inches of the propeller causing us to change course several times. Frustrated we abandoned the idea and as we headed back to the boat here comes a wooden boat with lots of people. They caught up with us just as we were boarding the boat. They were the same people as last night and we had a fine time talking with them. Gilly wanted to sell me for 3 pigs and 2 chickens to the single guy in the boat. He was so flustered he didn’t know what to say but the ladies had no problems expressing themselves and were ready to strike up a deal.
When we raised anchor to leave I was wondering if they knew that the waves and weather were never this calm outside the reef.
Our third day we anchored a little earlier because there was no good spots further ahead. The countryside was more cliff-like with deciduous trees shedding their leaves for winter – not a palm tree in sight. We are still 1,000 miles south of the equator so it is winter here.
Just after sunset a larger boat with 7 guys came by to say
“Bula!” and to ask if we were interested in lobster. Thumbs up and so we would see them tomorrow morning with their loot.
Morning came and $7US got us three nice size lobsters. The poor guys looked frozen as it is wintertime cold during the night. I gave them a wool cap and Gilly gave toys for the kids and one nice guy a brand new dress for his wife.
We left the same morning timing ourselves to arrive at Port Vuda during daylight hours. It is a dumpy, industrial area of freight docks and clogged waterways. John drove around for two hours trying to find the best place to anchor but nothing was compatible. We ended up anchoring where 5 other yacht was anchored and a neighbouring Dutch boat snickered about enjoying our tour of the harbour. After checking into customs and immigration we left for
Vuda Marina which is around the corner and down the bay. It was beautifully landscaped with a friendly jetty, good food, and great prices. They have been steadily adding to the facility and one of its valued features is that it is
(J2 Photo goes here)
A cyclone hole during the season. The boat’s keel is nesteled in the trench, riding on a cushion of tires, and insurance companies approve of this.
We did hire a cab for the day and went into the town of Nandi for some dickering with the merchants, ice cream, and absorbing the local scenery.
I spied this produce market and got quite the surprise. Notice the Jimica root all stacked on top of each other. It was very festive and open 24 hours.
The farmers would just bed down under the tables until all their produce is sold. Wandering around I spied the always present Kava Bowl which is mostly for men ( and foreigners ).
They pound the root, sell it everywhere, and drink it often. I commented on how I didn’t think it was too effective when he immediately shot back to take a gulp not a sip. So I did and the inevitable happened. I couldn’t feel my lips and had a compulsion to buy some corn that was purple.
It was time to pack for my trip back to the States. Since Allden is coming to take my place to Venuatu and Australia I needed to hide all my gear I am leaving on the boat for my return on September 24th. At 7am I gave out hugs and kisses, waved goodbye to our hippy neighbours, and bantered with the same cabbie from the day before.
The plane left Fiji for Honolulu at 7:30am on July 18.
I arrived in Seattle at 7:00am on July 18th.
How about that for international travel?
|
